Central Black Cuillin - Sgurr a Mhadaidh, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh and Sgurr na Banachdich

28 April 2007 - a sunny but slightly windy day
Start: OS Explorer 411 GR417246; just after the bridge on the Glen Brittle road

Set off: 0900
Return: 1430
Duration: 5hrs 30mins. Distance: 8km
Total Height Climbed: 1060m

A non walking westie route by Steve - Note hill walking can be dangerous and this route involves lots of scrambling and very narrow crest walking, these details are for info only.

This is a fantastic circuit of Coire a' Ghreadaidh taking in 3 Munro's and a couple of other tops involving grade 3 scrambling. I did the route on a glorious day at the end of April 07! I started from just over the bridge on the road at the foot of the W ridge of Sgurr Thuilm. It is a steady slog up the grassy slopes initially before reaching steep scree and a wee bit of rocks to weave between before the ridge eases slightly just over 2000'. It was a simple walk uphill to the summit with great views across to the Cuillin ridge and the imposing NW ridge of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh which looked vertical as you can see left!
The drop down from Sgurr Thuilm to the col is straight forward with a wee bit of scrambling over some pinnacles, but still the NW ridge ahead looked daunting! Sticking to the crest, as you approach the bulk of the ridge, it is a little less daunting but still a grade 3 scramble which is fairly sustained and exposed higher up. The good thing is the rock is fantastic with loads of options and no major awkward sections! Looking left into deep gash gully confirms that it is aptly named! Soon after the ridge eases and it is a simple traverse right and up onto the crest of the Cuillin ridge proper just before you reach Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and the lovely views down to Loch Coruisk.
From Mhadaidh, it is a fairly simple scramble down to the An Dorus Gap which is actually not very wide but does involve a steep, but fairly straight forward climb out. An easy section follws up to the Eag Dubh gap where it is simple to scramble down left on the Coruisk side to pass this and carry on up the ridge. This section is easy up to the "Wart" which is easily bypassed on the right and you soon come to the airy top of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh. This is a great viewpoint to see the majority of the ridge. The short distance to the south top is very delicate and includes a wee awkward down climb plus some careful balancing along the crest!
On from here down to the dip before Sgurr Thormaid is straight forward with another couple of awkward down climbs in sections. Once at the dip, the rise up to Thormaid is straight forward and you can easily bypass the 3 teeth via a path on the right before climbing up exposed slabs to the summit. Again there is a wee drop from here to the dip before the final climb up rocky scree, keeping right initially then coming back left to bring you to the summit of Sgurr na Banachdich where you can enjoy your packed lunch and watch the "ants" on the In Pin just across the dip!
My descent was via the W ridge from Banachdich to Sgurr nan Gobhar which involved some nice narrow sections just to keep you focused. Reaching the round grassy summit of Sgurr nan Gobhar I had a wee rest and some water and took in the view of Glenbrittle and the ridge and was lucky enough to spot a Golden Eagle soaring into Coire na Banachdich! The drop off SW Gobhar was steep and on rocks/scree requiring careful direction although the scree lower down was great for a quick descent! I then picked up the river just W of Eas Mor, dunked my head in it to cool down before following the path to the Memorial Hut, all in all a fantastic day in the Cuillins!